This was a difficult model to build. Not because of the number of pieces. Not because the size of the pieces. No this model is difficult because of the curves in this model. If your a beginner than I can’t stress enough how important it is to take your time. This is not a model to make quickly. You will be required to set it down and let it dry several times before it’s completion.
Step One: Printing and Cutting
Using card stock, either 150 lbs. weight (US & Canada) or 200 gsm everywhere else, print off all four pages of the pdf. Page one is the bottom of the model; page two is the top of the hill; page three are the sides of the hill; and page four are the interior supports. The interior supports will allow you to put heavier models on the hill without it collapsing. They will also strengthen your model allowing it to be used again and again! Get all of your pieces carefully cut out and set aside so they do not get damaged.
Step Two: Scoring and Edging
Taking a stylus or an empty ball point pen (I can’t stress the empty part enough) use a ruler to align the stylus over the fold lines and gently press down leaving a crease in the paper. This will allow you to fold the tabs and edges with ease and at the exact point where they are intended to fold. This is one little step that gives you a more professional look to your model!
Now take a permanent marker, sharpe, or water color marker and color in the tabs and exposed edges of every piece. This is called edging. I am currently using a Brown Water Color Marker, although green or black would work equally as well. Sharpe has a good line of colored permanent markers or go to a local art shop for some good pens. Edging will keep unsightly white lines from showing up to the casual eye.
Step Three: Forming and Gluing
Take the two hill side halves and glue them together as shown in the picture. Wait for the tabs to dry completely! Go work on another model, play a game, anything just leave it alone to dry. Then do the same for the other edge.
You may have to hold this tab in place for a little while so it can dry in the proper position.
Here is a good trick while letting it dry completely (just make sure no glue is outside of the tab as it will glue together like that). Take a clamp or clothes pin and pin the two tabs together. The tabs are the center of the B7 Hill.
Before gluing play around with the side of the hill and the top and see how they fit together. Get an idea of how the sides resist being formed and carefully bend them into position. Take some time to do this. You should be familiar with the pieces before gluing them together.
Now comes the hard and possibly frustrating part. Gluing. I personally started where the tabs are placed in the center where the model comes together in almost a figure 8.
As you can see from the picture I have only glued the center and then used something to clamp them together. You don’t have to use a clamp you can hold them together or use a tweezers (tweakers are your friend for paper models). make sure the sides of the hill and the top of the hill are flush. If they are not then the hill will be lopsided and will not turn out well at all. Take the extra time to make sure they are flush (flat) so they will be seamless when dry.
Now using the glue and your free hand start on the rounded ends of the hill. This will take some time as you want to make sure each tab adheres to the side piece and is flush and flat. Remember the sides are now going from being flat to making several different curved shapes and it will give you some resistance. Just be firm, don’t get aggressive with them. If you get frustrated finish the area you are working on, making sure it is secure, then take a break.
After all the tabs are dried I will place another bead of glue over the tabs then rub it in over the tabs with my finger making sure they are secure.
While drying if you can find a heavy object with about the same circumference of the hill you can use it to hold it down while you take a break.
Now despite all of my precautions I did get one edge that did not turn out flush. This is not a large problem. After the model is completely done I will take a sharp razor and carefully trim it off.
Step Four: Interior Supports
The Hardest part is over!
The interior supports are just a simple box fold. You can see I use a tweezers to hold the tabs while it drys (clamps won’t fit everywhere).
Now place them inside of the hill you have finished. I like to place them at the ends and position them to cover the best area. I then use a heavy object to hold them down and dry while I work on a different project.
Step Five: Bottom and Finished
The tabs from the hill go on the OUTSIDE of the bottom template. I did this for two reasons; Convenience and no one looks at the bottom of the hill during play. To glue the tabs on the inside would be a monstrous task and not worth it. Now as with every step take your time. Stretch the tabs so the rest of the sides forms to WizKids B7 Template.
When your done place a heavy object on it while it dries.
you can even place some tape over the tabs to protect them from ware and tear.
And thats it your done. Now the more you build the easier it becomes. The first one I built looked like a large piece of garbage and the second one (seen above) looks more like a hill. Now these hills can be used for any game system. I have a Mage Knight, Mechwarrior and a D&D Giant figure shown with the hill.
So enjoy
Awesome write-up HP.